There are lines and symbols on pattern pieces that need to be transferred to your fabric before you start to sew.
These symbols indicate things such as where to place pockets and buttonholes, where to stop or start a line of stitching, or where to match fabric pieces together.
The type of marking method you choose depends on the type of fabric you’re working with, the kind of mark you’ re making, and how much time you’re willing to spend on the task.
Instructions for marking your fabric pieces are given further down under each marking method.
Common symbols on pattern pieces
Notches
These are little triangular or diamond-shaped symbols found along the edges of pattern pieces. They indicate where to match one fabric piece to another.
Dots and squares
These can indicate where to match one fabric piece to another or where to start or stop a line of stitching.
Lines
These can indicate where to sew a line of stitching, where to fold or cut your fabric, where the center front or back of a piece is, or where to place pockets, buttons or buttonholes.
General marking tips
Make your marks before removing your fabric pieces from your cutting table to make the task easier.
Make your marks before removing the patterns from your fabric pieces.
Be as accurate as you can when transferring the symbols to your fabric.
Mark both fabric layers.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using marking tools.
Always test a marking method on a scrap of your fabric first to make sure the mark can be removed.
If you’re not sure whether you’ll be able to remove a mark, make the mark on the wrong side of your fabric.
Marking methods:
Tailor’s chalk
Description
This is a chalk made for marking fabric that comes in a variety of colors. It’s available in pencil, cake, and powdered forms.
Suitable for
Making smaller marks, such as dots and squares on both washable and dry-clean only fabrics.
Advantages
Easy to use. Easy to remove.
Disadvantages
Not appropriate for fabric that will be handled a lot during construction because the chalk comes off easily.
How to use
Use a color that contrasts with your fabric. To mark dots or squares, push a pin into the center of the symbol on the pattern piece, then into the fabric pieces underneath. Rub the chalk onto your fabric where the pin is.
How to remove
Remove the marks with a brush or by rubbing your fabric together.
Tracing paper and a tracing wheel
Description
Tracing paper is a type of coated paper that comes in a variety of colors. When placed against your fabric and rolled over with a tracing wheel (a tool that resembles a miniature pizza cutter), a mark is made on your fabric. A tracing wheel with a serrated edge produces a dotted line and a wheel with a smooth edge produces a solid line.
Suitable for
Marking lines, dots, and squares on fabric. Best for solid and opaque fabrics and washable fabrics.
Advantages
Quick and easy to use.
Disadvantages
Not appropriate for multicolored or sheer fabrics because the marks would be difficult to see. Not appropriate for dry-clean only fabrics because the marks must be removed with water.
How to use
Put cardboard underneath your fabric to protect your work surface. Use a paper color that contrasts with your fabric. Use a serrated tracing wheel for marking most fabrics and a smooth wheel for marking highly textured fabrics. Place the colored side of the paper against the side of your fabric where you want the mark to appear. You can mark both of your fabric pieces at once by unpinning your pattern piece, folding the tracing paper colored side out, and sliding it between your fabric pieces. Run your tracing wheel along the line on the pattern piece to transfer it to your fabric. To mark dots or squares, make an “X” with the wheel.
How to remove
Remove the marks with a damp cloth.
Marking Pen
Description
This is a pen made for marking fabric that comes in a variety of colors. It’s available in two types, air soluble and water soluble.
Suitable for
Transferring smaller marks onto fabric, such as dots and squares. Use an air soluble pen on dry- clean only fabrics. Use a water soluble pen on fabrics that can be washed.
Advantages
Quick and easy to use. Has a precise tip to allow for accurate marking.
Disadvantages
Marks made with air soluble pens will disappear within a few days. Therefore, item must be constructed promptly or the marks will need to be made again. Marks made with water soluble pens are not appropriate for dry-clean only fabrics. Some inks from marking pens can become permanent if exposed to heat or detergent.
How to use
Use a color pen that contrasts with your fabric. To mark dots or squares, push a pin into the center of the symbol on the pattern piece, then into the fabric pieces underneath. Rub the pen onto your fabric where the pin is.
How to remove
Marks made with air soluble pens disappear on their own with exposure to air. Remove marks from water soluble pens by dampening your fabric with water.
Bar soap
Description
A sliver of bar soap is used to mark fabric.
Suitable for
Marking smaller lines, dots, and squares on medium to dark colored washable fabrics.
Advantages
Cheap and readily available.
Disadvantages
Difficult to see on lighter fabrics. Not appropriate for dry-clean only fabrics because the marks must be removed with water.
How to use
To make your marks, rub the edge of the soap sliver onto your fabric. To keep the edges of the soap sliver sharp, periodically trim them with a knife.
How to remove
Remove the marks by dampening or laundering the fabric.
Tailor’s tacks
Description
Thread is used to mark the fabric.
Suitable for
Making all kinds of marks on fabrics that might stain with other methods and highly textured fabrics or prints where marks from other methods would be difficult to see.
Advantages
The only equipment needed are a needle and thread.
Disadvantages
The marks can be time consuming to make. Thread pieces may come out as the fabric pieces are handled.
How to make
Use a color thread that contrasts with your fabric. Silk thread is ideal because it’s fine and smooth. If you have lots of marks to transfer, you may want to use a different color thread for each symbol.
Pull about a 24” length of thread through a hand needle and double it. Don’t knot the thread. Push the needle through the pattern symbol and then through the layers of fabric underneath. Pull the thread through, leaving about a two inch tail on top of the fabric.
Push the needle back up through the fabric and pattern, about 1/8” away from the first piercing and pull it through. Cut the thread so that this second thread tail is the same length as the first. Finish making all of the other tailor’s tacks on that particular fabric piece, then unpin and slowly pull the tissue pattern off the fabric. Slowly pull the fabric pieces apart at each tailor’s tack (don’ t pull the top section all the way off yet) and snip the threads in between the layers of fabric to about 1/2”.
Stickers
Description
Small pieces of tape or sticker dots are used to mark the fabric.
Suitable for
Marking the right or wrong side of fabric, marking placement of items like buttons or pockets.
Advantages
Quick and easy to use.
Disadvantages
Depending on the stickers used, can mar delicate fabrics or leave behind a residue.
How to use
Apply the adhesive sticker where you want it. You may want to test the sticker first to make sure it won’t damage your fabric.
How to remove
Just peel the tape or sticker off the fabric when finished.
Stitches
Description
A long basting stitch is used to mark lines such as the center back or front of a garment piece.
Suitable for
Fabrics that might stain with other methods. Highly textured fabrics or prints where other markings methods would be difficult to see.
Advantages
More visible than some other marking methods.
Disadvantages
Can be time consuming to make.
How to use
Use tracing paper to transfer lines to the wrong side of your fabric. Then, with needle and thread, hand-baste through the line using long basting stitches.
Snips
Description
A snip is made with a pair of scissors into the seam allowance of a fabric piece.
Suitable for
Marking notches along the edges of pattern pieces.
Advantages
Quick and easy to make.
Disadvantages
Should only be made with seam allowances that are 5/8” or more. Care must be taken not to accidentally clip past the seam allowance. Snips can be a little difficult to see. Clipping too far into the seam allowance can weaken the seam.
How to make
Clip about 1/4” into the seam allowance into the center of each notch. For a double notch, clip twice. For a triple notch, clip three times.