Interfacing Basics - With Tips for Choosing

What is interfacing?

Interfacing is a kind of fabric that’s placed into parts of garment to provide shape, support, stiffness,
reinforcement, or stability. It’s often used in collars, cuffs, waistbands, lapels, facings, necklines, pockets, and the
front bands of shirts.

The back of your pattern will indicate whether you need interfacing and if so, how much.

Choose an interfacing based on the kind of fabric you’re working with and the effect you’re looking to create.
Sometimes the back of your pattern will suggest using a specific type of interfacing.

Kinds of interfacing

Interfacing is available in two types – fusible and non-fusible, and in different weaves – woven,

non-

woven,

and knit.

Fusible

Fusible interfacing is backed with an adhesive that melts with the heat of an iron,

bonding the

interfacing to your fabric.

Fusible interfacing is popular because it’s fast and easy to apply.

Always test fusible interfacing first by applying it to a scrap of your garment fabric. This is

to make

sure it fuses properly to your fabric, that the adhesive doesn’t melt through to

the other side, and

that you like the degree of stiffness it produces.

When applying fusible interfacing, follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly –

instructions should

come with the interfacing when you purchase it. Incorrectly applied

interfacing can become unglued

and bubble up from your fabric, ruining the look of your

garment.

So why not use fusible interfacing all the time? Because it doesn’t bond well to some

fabrics, like

those that are highly textured. And it’s not appropriate for napped fabrics like

velvet or fake fur – the

pressing required to bond the interfacing to the fabric would

crush the pile. And it’s not suitable for

fabrics that can’t take the heat of an iron like

metallics, beaded or sequined fabrics, or vinyl. And it’s

not so great for open weave

fabrics like laces and meshes because the adhesive would melt through

to the other

side. Plus, fusible interfacings tend to stiffen fabric more – a look and feel you may not

want.

Non-fusible

Non-fusible interfacing must be sewn into a garment. It’s usually basted or glued in

temporarily, then

stitched in permanently.

Use a non-fusible interfacing for fabrics that fusible interfacing isn’t appropriate for (see

fusible

interfacing

above for examples) or when you want a softer drape.

Non-woven

Non-woven interfacing is made up of man-made fibers that have been pressed together.

The edges of non-woven interfacing don’t fray. And since there is no grain, your pattern

pieces can

laid out in any direction.

Non-woven interfacing can be used with most kinds of fabrics. It’s available in fusible and

non-fusible.

Woven

Woven interfacing is made up of fibers that have been woven together.

Woven interfacing tends to be stronger and more stable than non-woven interfacing.

Woven interfacings are appropriate for most fabrics and are usually sew-in (non-fusible).

Knit

Knit interfacing stretches.

Use it for knit fabrics. Also, use it for woven fabrics when you want softer shaping or

when you want

to maintain stretch in the fabric after the interfacing has been applied.

Interfacings also come in different weights

– light, medium, and heavy. As a general rule,

choose an

interfacing that’s slightly lighter in weight than your garment fabric.

Interfacings are also available in different colors

– usually white, black, and sometimes gray.

As a

general rule, choose white interfacing for lighter colors and black interfacing for

darker colors.

More tips

Choose an interfacing with care requirements similar to your garment fabric. The fiber content

of your

interfacing does not have to match the fiber content of your fabric.

Test the interfacing on your fabric first before applying it to your garment. For fusible

interfacing, take

scrap of your garment fabric, fuse your interfacing to it, then let it cool.

Examine the piece to make

sure the

interfacing adhered properly and that no adhesive seeped

through to the other side. See if

you like the

drape and degree of crispness it produced. If not,

try another interfacing. For sew-in

interfacing, sandwich

your interfacing between layers of your

garment fabric to see if you like the feel

and the drape.

Consider purchasing several kinds of interfacing to keep on hand for later projects. This also

comes in

handy when testing your interfacing. If you don’t like your first choice, you can easily

try another.

Store fusible interfacing rolled, not folded, remembering that you won’t be able to press out

any

creases.

Preshrinking Interfacing

There’s debate over whether interfacing needs to be preshrunk. Some recommend it while

others

believe it’

s not necessary.

If you choose to preshrink your interfacing:

Launder

non-fusible

interfacing the way you plan to launder your finished item.

Hand wash

fusible

interfacing. Submerge it in a sink full of warm to hot water for about 10

minutes.

Don’t

wring the interfacing because it could damage the adhesive and create wrinkles

you won’t be

able to press

out. Instead, roll the interfacing between layers of a towel and blot

the water out. Lay it

flat to dry - it may

stretch if hung. And don’t put fusible interfacing in the

dryer. The heat of the dryer

could damage the

adhesive or the adhesive could damage your

dryer.

If you choose not to preshrink your interfacing, steam shrink the piece just prior to application

(also

do this

if you plan to have your finished item dry-cleaned). Hold your iron over the

interfacing piece

and steam it

for a few seconds.

Sewing Information, Advice, How-to

Interfacing Basics