Zippers - Types, Parts, How to Shorten a Zipper

Zippers provide a strong and smooth closure for our garments and bags. We can position them to be virtually
invisible or install bold, decorative ones meant to be noticed. Zippers come in a variety of types, colors, and
lengths to suit every purpose.

The parts of a zipper

The tape

This is the woven fabric part of the

zipper

that holds the zipper teeth.

It’s what’s

stitched into a seam to

anchor the zipper in

place.

The teeth

These are the little metal, plastic, or nylon pieces that come together to form the

chain

when

the

zipper is

zipped (for more on

zipper teeth

, see further down).

The chain

This is what forms when the zipper teeth are joined.

The slider

This is the y-shaped channel that runs up and down the length of the zipper. It’s what joins or

disengages

the

teeth

. The slider has a way of locking itself to stay in place.

The pull tab

This is the tiny handle that’s used to move the

slider

up and down the length of the zipper.

The stops

Present at both ends of a zipper, these are pieces that block the

slider

from slipping off the end

of the

zipper.

The

Insertion pin

Present on a

separating zipper

, it’s

end piece that’s inserted into a

retaining box

to join the

two

sides

of the zipper together.

The

Retaining box

This is a type of zipper stop on a

separating zipper

. The retaining box receives an

insertion pin

join

the

two sides of the zipper together so it can be zipped.

Zipper teeth materials

Metal

Individual pieces of metal, such as brass, nickel, or aluminum, make up the teeth of this zipper.

This

creates

a strong zipper that’s often used in jeans and work clothes. The drawback to

metal is that it

can corrode.

Plastic

Individual pieces of molded plastic make up the teeth of this zipper. Plastic zippers are also

strong

and

durable.

Coil

A continuous coil of nylon or polyester make up the “teeth” of this zipper. Each coil loop acts as

“tooth.”

It’s more flexible than metal or plastic zippers, making it a good choice for curved

areas. Coil

zippers are

generally lighter in weight than metal teeth zippers, are smoother, are

“self-fixing,” and

don’t jam.

Basic Zipper types

Conventional zipper

(also called a

standard

closed-end zipper

)

This type of zipper is closed at one end. It’s usually sewn into an area that’s covered by a

placket so

the

zipper won’t show.

Invisible zipper

This type of zipper is also closed at one end. However, the zipper teeth are located behind the

tape

so they

won’t show when sewn into a seam. This kind of zipper is often used in dresses

and skirts.

Separating zipper

This type of zipper is sewn into seams that will open completely, such as the front of a jacket.

The

two

sides of the zipper separate completely when unzipped.

Choosing a zipper

Zippers are numbered with sizes to indicate the width of their teeth when the zipper is closed.

The

smaller

the number, the smaller the teeth.

Zippers are also available in many lengths. The length of a zipper will be indicated on its

package.

Zippers

can also be purchased by the yard, allowing you to make your own custom

zippers.

When choosing a zipper, choose a color that matches or compliments your fabric. Also consider

the

weight

of your fabric and how durable your zipper needs to be. The back of your pattern

will indicate

the zipper

length you need. But when in doubt, purchase a zipper longer than you

think you'll need.

You can always

shorten the zipper before sewing it into your item (see below).

How to Shorten a zipper

A zipper can be shortened from the top or the bottom. To shorten a zipper from the bottom,

create a

new

stop

by sewing a bar tack across the teeth of the zipper where you want the

slider to stop. Cut

the zipper

off about a half an inch below this bar tack.

If the zipper is to be placed into a garment with a waistband, it can be shortened from the top.

Sew

the

zipper in as you normally would. The waistband will automatically create the new stop.

All you

have to do is

cut off the extra tape. Just make sure to unzip the zipper first so the slider

is below your

cutting line.

More tips

Preshrink your zipper prior to sewing. Either machine-wash and dry it, placing it in a lingerie

bag so it

won’t

get lost, or submerge it in warm water for a few minutes and let it air-dry.

Use a

zipper foot

to sew in zipper. The design of this pressure foot will allow you to sew close to

the

zipper

teeth.

To reduce wear and tear on a zipper, close all zippers in your garments and bags before

laundering.

Sewing Information, Advice, How-to

All About Zippers